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ADVANCED⏱️ 120 min read

How to Upgrade to Direct Drive Extruders

Master the step-by-step upgrade process to boost your 3D printer's retraction speed, reduce stringing, and achieve superior print quality.

Why Upgrade to a Direct Drive Extruder?

If you're battling stringing, oozing, or poor overhangs on your Bowden-tube 3D printer like the Ender 3, a direct drive extruder is the game-changer. Mounted directly on the hotend, it shortens the filament path for lightning-fast retractions and precise control—perfect for flexible filaments like TPU. Advanced users love the reliability gains, but it requires mechanical finesse and wiring know-how.

In this guide, you'll learn to swap your stock extruder for a modern direct drive setup. We'll cover disassembly, mounting, wiring, calibration, and testing on popular printers like Creality Ender series. Expect 2-4 hours total, depending on your printer and experience. No firmware flashing needed for plug-and-play kits, but we'll include tips if required.

By the end, you'll have a smoother, quieter printer ready for pro-level prints. Let's dive in!

What You'll Need

  • Direct drive extruder kit (e.g., Creality Sprite Pro or Bondtech BMG—required)
  • Precision Allen key set (1.5mm-3mm—required)
  • Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (required)
  • Soldering iron and solder (optional, for custom wiring)
  • Heat shrink tubing and wire strippers (optional)
  • Tweezers and nozzle cleaning kit (recommended)
  • Replacement PTFE tube (10-15cm, optional)
  • Printer-specific mounting hardware (check kit compatibility)

Estimated Time: 2-4 hours Difficulty: advanced

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace and Printer

Clear a static-free, well-lit bench. Power off your printer, unplug it, and remove the filament and bed for easy access. Document your stock setup with photos—every screw and wire position—for reversal if needed.

Why? Safety first: prevents shorts or lost parts. Expect a fully disassembled carriage in 10 minutes, ready for upgrade.

💡 Tips:

  • Wear anti-static wrist strap if available.
  • Label wires with tape for quick reassembly.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Never work powered on—risk of shock or damage.

Step 2: Disassemble the Stock Extruder

Remove the extruder motor by unscrewing 2-4 Allen bolts (typically M3x25). Disconnect the Bowden tube by loosening the collet at the hotend and extruder. Unscrew the hotend assembly from the carriage plate.

Gently extract the PTFE liner. This frees the Bowden system. Success: All parts separated, no bent brackets.

💡 Tips:

  • Support the hotend to avoid straining wires.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Don't force the tube—use pliers gently on collet.

Step 3: Mount the Direct Drive Extruder Body

Align the new extruder's mounting holes with your carriage plate (may need adapter plate for Ender 3). Secure with provided M3 bolts, torquing to 1-1.5 Nm. Attach the hotend to the extruder—most kits use a bayonet or threaded mount.

Why? Ensures rigid alignment for accurate extrusion. Check for wobble; shim if needed.

💡 Tips:

  • Dry-fit first to confirm fit.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Over-tightening cracks plastic mounts.

Step 4: Install the Extruder Motor and Gears

Slide the stepper motor into the extruder body and secure with screws. Mesh the drive gear with the idler—adjust tension spring per kit instructions (usually 1-2 full turns).

Load a test filament snippet to verify grip without slipping. Success: Smooth manual extrusion by hand.

💡 Tips:

  • Lube gears lightly with white lithium grease.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Too much tension grinds filament.

Step 5: Route and Connect Wiring

Unplug stock extruder wires. Plug the new motor into the X-axis stepper port (or Y if dual Z). For heated hotends, extend thermistor/heater wires if short—solder with heat shrink.

Secure cables with zip ties to avoid carriage drag. Test continuity with multimeter.

💡 Tips:

  • Use JST-XH connectors for easy swaps.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Polarity matters—swap if motor reverses.

Step 6: Reassemble and Bed Level

Reinstall the bed and level it manually or via mesh. Heat hotend to 200°C, extrude 100mm filament via terminal (G1 E100 F100).

Measure actual extrusion with calipers—should be 100mm ±0.5%. Adjust E-steps in firmware.

💡 Tips:

  • Use M503 G-code to verify steps/mm.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Skip PID tuning? Expect temp swings.

Step 7: Firmware Adjustments and Test Print

Update firmware if kit requires (e.g., enable linear advance). Slice a retraction test (tower or community file). Print and inspect for stringing.

Tune retraction: Start at 1-2mm @ 40-60mm/s. Success: Clean prints, no blobs.

💡 Tips:

  • Klipper users: Input shaper for quieter operation.

⚠️ Warnings:

  • Wrong E-steps under-extrudes corners.

Pro Tips

  • Choose titanium heatbreak for high-temp filaments.
  • Print custom fan ducts for better cooling post-upgrade.
  • Mark your filament path for quick swaps.
  • Update slicer profiles: Reduce Z-hop for direct drive.
  • Vibration dampers on motor reduce noise 50%.
  • Test with PLA first before exotics.
  • Backup EEPROM before changes.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Ignoring belt tension—causes skipping; check every print.
  • Skipping E-step calibration—leads to dimensional errors.
  • Poor wire routing—snags during homing.
  • Over-tensioning gears—filament grinding.
  • Firmware mismatch—motor won't spin.

Troubleshooting

Problem: Motor doesn't turn

Solution: Check wiring polarity and X-port connection. Verify 12V supply.

Problem: Under-extrusion

Solution: Re-calibrate E-steps (M92 Ennn; M500). Clean gears.

Problem: Stringing persists

Solution: Increase retraction speed/distance. Dry filament.

Problem: Hotend crash

Solution: Re-level bed, check Z-offset.

Creality Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Plug-and-play for Ender 3/5; easy install with all hardware.

Best for: Budget upgrade for beginners to direct drive.

Price Range: $39.99

Bondtech BMG Extruder

Dual-gear precision for consistent push; lightweight.

Best for: High-speed printing and flexibles.

Price Range: $99-$129

E3D Hemera Direct Drive

Modular, reliable for volcano/Revo hotends; pro-grade.

Best for: Advanced users wanting expandability.

Price Range: $140-$160

BIQU H2 Extruder V2

Metal frame, high torque; affordable premium.

Best for: Heavy-duty for large nozzles.

Price Range: $45-$60

Affiliate Disclosure: This page contains affiliate links. If you purchase through our links, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend products we believe will add value to our readers.

🛒 Recommended Products

Creality Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Creality Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Budget upgrade for beginners to direct drive.

$39.99

Creality Sprite Extruder Pro Kit Plug-and-play for Ender 3/5; easy install with all hardware.

Bondtech BMG Extruder

Bondtech BMG Extruder

High-speed printing and flexibles.

$99-$129

Bondtech BMG Extruder Dual-gear precision for consistent push; lightweight.

E3D Hemera Direct Drive

E3D Hemera Direct Drive

Advanced users wanting expandability.

$140-$160

E3D Hemera Direct Drive Modular, reliable for volcano/Revo hotends; pro-grade.

BIQU H2 Extruder V2 - Image 1 of 6

BIQU H2 Extruder V2

Heavy-duty for large nozzles.

$45-$60

BIQU H2 Extruder V2 Metal frame, high torque; affordable premium.