TP-Link AC1750 Wi-Fi Extender (RE450)
Ideal for small- to medium-sized homes where the router is far from one or two rooms.
TP-Link AC1750 Wi-Fi Extender (RE450) Simplest way to expand coverage to dead zones without replacing your router.
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Discover simple steps to boost your home Wi-Fi coverage and speeds with these practical tips.
Few things are as frustrating as a dead Wi-Fi zone in the middle of a video call or a movie that buffers every couple of minutes. Whether you're working from home, streaming 4K, or just trying to scroll Instagram in the bedroom, a weak signal can ruin your day. The good news: you don't need to be a tech wizard or buy expensive gear right away to make a big difference.
In this guide, you'll learn 10 actionable steps to improve your Wi-Fi signal, starting with easy and free adjustments and moving toward add-on equipment like range extenders and mesh systems. By the end, you'll know exactly why your Wi-Fi underperforms and what to do about it. Expect to spend 20 to 40 minutes on the setup and testing process—no special skills required.
Estimated Time: 20-40 minutes Difficulty: beginner
Your first task is to understand where your Wi-Fi works well and where it doesn’t. Use a Wi-Fi analyzer app on your phone or walk around your home with a laptop while running a speed test. Use an online speed test tool and note the download/upload speeds in each room.
Take a screenshot or write down your results. You should see a clear pattern of which rooms have strong signal and which are dead zones. This will guide every other step, so you know exactly where to reposition your router or add an extender.
For the most accurate test, stand near the router and note that speed, then move away and compare. Don’t test while someone else is streaming or gaming, as that will skew results.
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Your router broadcasts best when placed in a central, elevated location. Move it away from corner walls, filing cabinets, and floors. If your home has two floors, try to place the router near the ceiling of the lower floor or on the landing.
Keep the router at least 5 feet off the ground and place it on a shelf or tabletop, not inside an enclosed cabinet. The less obstruction (walls, metal, water) between the router and your devices, the better the signal.
If your router has adjustable antennas, you'll be doing that in a later step. For now, just get the router into its ideal physical spot.
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Router firmware is the software that tells your router how to work. Just like your phone, it sometimes needs updates to fix bugs and improve performance. Log in to your router’s admin panel by entering its IP address (usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1) into a browser. The default username and password are usually printed on a label on the router.
Find the “Firmware Update” or “Advanced” section and click “Check for Updates.” If an update is available, install it. Some routers have an option for automatic updates—turn that on if you can.
Updating takes about 5–10 minutes, and your Wi-Fi may drop while it’s installing. Don’t turn off the router during the update. After the update, reboot your router and test your speeds again.
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If your router has external antennas, you can optimize signal reach. For a single-story home, point both antennas vertically (up). For a two-story home, point one antenna straight up and the other horizontally to the side. This helps cover both floors.
If your router has internal antennas (like a small cube), simply reposition the router itself; try laying it on its side if you've got a dead zone on another floor. Experiment until you see better performance in the rooms that were weak.
Antenna placement takes some trial and error. Use the speed test results from step 1 to measure before/after each adjustment.
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Wi-Fi routers send signals on different channels. In the 2.4 GHz band, channels 1, 6, and 11 are best because they don’t overlap with each other. In the 5 GHz band, there are more channels, but they can also get crowded. A Wi-Fi analyzer app (free on Android and iOS) can tell you which channels are least congested in your area.
Once you know which channel is clearest, go into your router’s wireless settings and manually switch to that channel. You can usually set the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz networks separately. Don’t forget to save your settings before rebooting.
If your router has “Auto” channel selection, it should pick a good one automatically, but many let you override it. Choosing a less crowded channel is one of the simplest fixes for slow Wi-Fi, especially in apartment buildings.
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Most modern routers broadcast two separate networks: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. The 2.4 GHz band reaches further but is slower and often crowded. The 5 GHz band is much faster but won’t travel as far or go through walls as well.
For devices that are close to the router or used for streaming/video calls, connect them to the 5 GHz network. If your router supports “band steering,” enable it so it automatically moves devices to the best band.
Check your device’s Wi-Fi settings to see if you have two networks with “_5G” in the name. If you don’t, your router may be finding both networks under one name; look for settings to split them. Once you connect to 5 GHz on your phone or laptop, you should see a noticeable speed boost near the router.
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Your Wi-Fi signal can be degraded by other electronics that use radio waves. Microwaves, cordless phones, baby monitors, and Bluetooth speakers can cause interference, especially on the 2.4 GHz band.
Make sure your router is at least a few feet away from these devices. If your kitchen sits between your router and living room, you’ll have trouble. Also avoid placing the router on a desk next to monitors or USB 3.0 hard drives that can cause ambient interference.
For persistent problems, switch all your Wi-Fi devices to 5 GHz (if they support it) because that band is less affected by common home electronics.
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Sometimes the problem is not your router but the device you’re using. Old network drivers or adapters can be slower and less efficient. On a Windows PC, go to Device Manager, find Network Adapters, right-click your Wi-Fi adapter, and select “Update Driver.” On a Mac, updates are usually delivered through macOS system updates.
Additionally, pay attention to the Wi-Fi standard your device supports. If you have an older laptop that only supports 802.11g, it will cap at 54 Mbps even if your router is much faster. Consider a Wi-Fi USB adapter if your device is too old.
After updating, reboot your device and see if the connection improves. This step is essential if you’ve finally gotten fast internet but your computer can’t keep up.
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The most reliable connection is a cable. If you have a computer, gaming console, or streaming box that never moves, connect it directly to your router with an Ethernet cable. This frees up Wi-Fi bandwidth for other devices and ensures no lag for activities like gaming or 4K streaming.
If your router is far from those devices, you can use a powerline adapter (recommended in the product list) to send internet through your home’s electrical wiring. It’s often more stable than Wi-Fi and easy to set up.
Wired connections are overkill for phones and tablets, but for any device that doesn’t move, they’re a simple upgrade that can make a huge difference.
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If you still have dead zones after all the previous steps, it’s time to consider adding hardware. Wi-Fi range extenders (like the TP-Link AC1750) connect to your existing router and rebroadcast the signal to a further area. They are inexpensive and easy to set up, but they usually cut your bandwidth in half.
For larger homes, a mesh Wi-Fi system (like the eero 6+) is a better choice. Mesh systems use multiple nodes that seamlessly communicate to blanket your home with Wi-Fi. You can place them in separate rooms and get a single, strong network.
Whichever you choose, place the extender or node between the router and the dead zone, within good range of the router. Then test the new network name (if it isn’t the same) and enjoy your improved signal.
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⚠️ Warnings:
Problem: My Wi-Fi is still slow in the living room.
Solution: Check whether your device supports 5 GHz. If not, consider using an extender closer to that room or move the router.
Problem: My extender creates a separate network and I keep disconnecting.
Solution: Set the extender to use the same SSID (network name) and password as your main router, or enable universal repeater mode. Many extenders have this feature.
Problem: Changing the channel didn't help.
Solution: Try switching between 20/40 MHz bandwidth settings (or 80 MHz for 5 GHz) in your router. Sometimes a wider channel can be unstable in congested areas.
Problem: I can't log into my router admin page.
Solution: Check the label on the router for the default IP and credentials. If you forgot your custom login, you might need to do a factory reset (press and hold the reset button for 10 seconds).
Problem: When should I seek professional help?
Solution: If you've tried everything and your home is large or has unusual construction (e.g., concrete walls), a professional network installer can help with cabling or a whole-home system.
Simplest way to expand coverage to dead zones without replacing your router.
Best for: Ideal for small- to medium-sized homes where the router is far from one or two rooms.
Price Range: $40-$60
Whole-home coverage with seamless handoff between nodes.
Best for: Best for larger homes or multi-story houses with persistent dead zones.
Price Range: $150-$200
Uses electrical wiring to create a stable Ethernet-like connection where Wi-Fi is weak.
Best for: Great for streaming or gaming in a room far from the router without long cables.
Price Range: $30-$50
If your router is over 5 years old, upgrading to Wi-Fi 6 boosts speed and capacity.
Best for: Replaces your current router to get faster speeds, better range, and support for many devices.
Price Range: $90-$120
Ideal for small- to medium-sized homes where the router is far from one or two rooms.
TP-Link AC1750 Wi-Fi Extender (RE450) Simplest way to expand coverage to dead zones without replacing your router.

Best for larger homes or multi-story houses with persistent dead zones.
Amazon eero 6+ mesh Wi-Fi system Whole-home coverage with seamless handoff between nodes.
Great for streaming or gaming in a room far from the router without long cables.
NETGEAR Powerline 1000 (PL1000) Uses electrical wiring to create a stable Ethernet-like connection where Wi-Fi is weak.

Replaces your current router to get faster speeds, better range, and support for many devices.
TP-Link Archer AX55 (AX3000) Wi-Fi 6 Router If your router is over 5 years old, upgrading to Wi-Fi 6 boosts speed and capacity.